Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed for menopausal skin. According to the French manufacturer, the ingredient specifically targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, a process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
The development is based on a modeling study of menopausal skin. Silab says this work showed a deficiency in ferritinophagy during menopause, leading to a lack of bioavailable iron and contributing to premature skin aging. The company describes this phenomenon as metallo-aging.
A targeted approach to iron regulation
Silab says metallo-aging is amplified by UV radiation. UV exposure favors the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, which can lead to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and cause significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to counter these effects by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. According to Silab, the active ingredient facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it also limits oxidative stress under UV exposure. The company states that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging.
Reported effects in volunteer studies
Silab reports that, from 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was revitalized. The skin barrier was reinforced, and the complexion was described as unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days.
When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the active ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation, according to the company. Within hours after UV exposure, the appearance of redness was also limited.
Marshmallow root sourcing and processing
For Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has implemented a traced supply chain with French partners. This supply has been validated against criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding.
To make use of the mucilage-rich roots, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides. The resulting ingredient is patented and recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%.
Metallomia is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. Silab also states that it complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.